Fretful skies (Kasey McNeally photo) |
This morning, the
eastern edge of our earth wore a pearlescent blush of apricot and peach. Above
the black silhouettes of ragged firs and bare bones birches, the sky was smoky
gray. To the west, from whence our weather
usually comes, thicker clouds menaced, foreboding yet another round of treacherous
weather that the forecasters have been predicting for several days now. On the
drive to town for the week’s groceries, the snow-covered road twisted through
fields mantled in white and through stands of firs bowed low by the weight of
the recent storms. The temperature
outside the heated cocoon of the car was a surprisingly warm 10 degrees, the
warmest it has been in more than a week of temperatures that plunged at night
to the minus twenties and struggled to climb above zero during the day.
Into the snowy woods (Kasey McNeally photo) |
Two hundred years
ago, New Hampshire native son Daniel Webster reportedly described the rugged
White Mountains as a place that produced men, but while that well may be true,
these Northern Maine woods produce their share too. It takes a special fortitude and resilience
simply to survive the punishing temperatures and the mountains of snow that
bear down upon Aroostook County every winter.
So rugged is this northernmost reach that until the late 1800s, long
after Webster’s famous utterance, few men, at least few white European men,
lived here. The first settlers were
Acadians, reportedly driven north along the Canadian side of the St. John River
Valley by British Empire Loyalists settling farther south in New Brunswick, or
moving east from Quebec where they had been in exile sometime around 1785. A few brave settlers also pushed north to the
Valley from the Kennebec region of central Maine, and lumbermen settled in the
vast stands of forest around Millinocket, soldiers in barracks at Houlton
around the beginning of the 19th century. But the woods remained largely unsettled
until the end of the 19th century.
(Kasey McNeally photo) |
Then in 1870, the
United States reached out to Swedish immigrants, offering land for the settling
in what was then known, and remains still, the Great North Woods. A band of
about fifty people – me, women, and children – took up the offer, and the area
began to be settled. It is hard to
imagine what they faced, especially after weathering nearly two weeks of
brutally cold temperatures and repeated snow, but the small group not only
prospered but was also soon joined by others.
They must have been a hardy group, surviving brutal cold and hip deep
snows, but also reveling in the beauty and magic that is Aroostook at its
finest, whether summer or winter. That
same spirit of determination and resilience is what keeps many here, although
the out-migration of young people is rapid now, and draws others who love the
wildness and peace as we do. It is not a
place for the faint of heart or spirit, but it is home.
The tree is down
and the furniture returned to its normal place. The house is quiet, muted with
the mountains of snow banked up around it nearly to the windows, until snowplow
patrol begins. With only two houses on
our three-mile-long, dead-end road there is little traffic, especially in
winter. Even in summer, few cars come
down the road, and now in the muffled silence of winter, the dogs spend most of
the day stretched out before the fire or curled up dozing in their chairs. Peace reigns, until the plow truck turns the
corner off the main road almost a half mile away.
Snow mail (Kasey McNeally photo) |
Monty hears it
first. He wakes abruptly from deep sleep and comes immediately to full
attention, ears up, head cocked. Then the yelping begins as he warns us and the
rest of the world that the monster is coming.
He leaps from being curled up in a ball in less time than it takes me to
jump and slosh the coffee I’ve just poured onto my hand, the coffee table, the
carpet. And just as I catch my breath and start to set the cup down, Hannah
takes up the alarm, although I am almost certain she has no idea what the fuss
is about, and she too bounds for the window.
They are not
anxious to be outside these days, dashing headlong into the frozen whiteness,
getting right to business and then galloping back inside to stretch before the
fire, basking in the heat, or curl in round balls upon the bed. We spend a lot of time tossing the pony ball
from living room into bedroom and rough-housing with Monty, who at barely two,
is still a busy boy. Venerable Hannah at
nearly 14 has all the dignity of a dowager, and lies in her chair, and casts a
baleful eye on his antics. At bedtime,
both are happiest on the bed, swaddled in old wool quilts and Christmas
fleeces, and curl up companionably, their difference in age forsaken for the
warmth and companionship of dozing comfortably warm.
Now is the time
when we turn our attention to perusing the seed catalogs. They come in flocks at this time of year, and
each must be as thoroughly read and as carefully considered as the other,
although we usually only buy our seeds from a few regular suppliers. We buy
only organic, untreated, non-GMO seeds, and begin the flats inside on tables
under the kitchen windows. Our standbys
are Maine-based Fedco Seeds, whose bare-bones, black and white catalog is
anything but boring. Seed descriptions
include historical commentary and personal preferences on seeds, a variety of
interesting black and white illustrations, and sage advice on planting and
other farmerly interests. Then there is High Mowing Seeds out of Vermont, which
although sometimes a bit too fervent in proselytizing local foods and
sustainable practices – especially to old gardeners like us – offers a truly
wonderful and reliable selection of seeds.
Both stand solidly behind their products and have excellent customer
service. We also like Southern Exposure
Seed Exchange that always surprises us with the number of heirloom varieties
of, well, everything that they carry. We
buy our Golden Bantam corn seed from them because we love the real “corniness”
of that variety and few companies carry it at all. It is the corn of my childhood.
We’ve given up
planting potatoes because in recent years, we’ve lost more crops to late blight
than we have harvested, and that blight spreads rapidly to our tomatoes, which
we dearly love. However, anyone who is
looking for good organic seed potato would do well to check out the Gerritsen’s
Wood Prairie Farm down the road a piece in Bridgewater. Now as to tomatoes, over the years we have
tried dozens of varieties, some just for the heck of trying them, but most in
search of the perfect tomatoes to grow in our short and oft cool growing season. We’ve settled upon Moskvitz for a table and
canning tomato, and San Marzano as our paste and pasta sauce. We order early as more and more people have
taken up growing their own, even if only a tiny patch of vegetables, and
because we are excited to plan ahead for the yields that fill our freezers and
pantry shelves each year. As Bruce often
notes as he takes packages of frozen veggies from the freezer, it’s the best
kind of grocery shopping.
These snowbound
days are also terrific for a variety of crafts, and I have been indulging this
year in rice-filled hot pads for my mother and Hannah’s aching bones. The flannel, rice-filled pads can be
microwaved for one or two minutes and come out toasty warm and stay that way
for a couple hours. The bags take some
patience, but are both inexpensive and easy to make, and best of all, by adding
a few dried lavender blossoms and a drop or two of lavender essential oil, the
warm bags give off a lovely scent that is certain to lull even the worst
insomniac into dreamland.
I’ve also turned to
making magical ballerina skirts and head pieces that charm little girls. The
idea for these came after a visit to my friends Toby and Bobbi in Atlanta and a
visit to a local festival. Several
vendors were selling the costumes for exorbitant prices, especially after I
examined the construction. Once home, I
bought a few yards of pastel tulle, some wide satin ribbon and began turning
out the fairy-like costumes. They have
charmed every little girl who has received one.
It’s also a good
time for herbal concoctions. I’m busily
making lemon sugar scrubs, spice mixes for mug mats, and pouring over catalogs
from organic herb suppliers to decide which teas and herbal blends for cooking
that I will make up this year. Normally,
I grow and harvest most of my own herbs, but this year, the demands of
teaching, writing a dissertation and caring from my mother left me ill
prepared. I did manage to harvest wild caraway seeds, which have been cleaned
and stored in bottles for rye bread and other toothsome goodies, and I harvested
enough mint to make a tea mix. Cinnamon
is one of my favorite spices, and I am already planning on ordering several
pounds of sticks to turn into wreaths.
I’ve also cut the bags for lavender sachets to tuck into the linen
closet and with the extra blankets stored in the guest room closet. Although getting outside to explore, follow
animal tracks and generally enjoy our northern winters has been near impossible
this year with temperatures so low, there is plenty to keep me entertained and
busy indoors.
As the days grow
longer and the cold grows stronger, we turn more and more to comfort food. Pork roasts basted with cider, hearty soups
like the hamburger stews we are having this week, casseroles, and stuffed cabbage and peppers, so
cooking also takes up a good amount of time.
One of our favorite dishes is a variation on a classic stroganoff: cube
steaks in mushroom gravy. This is an
easy dish but rich and satisfying.
Cube steaks with mushroom gravy
4 - 6 cube steaks
3/4 teaspoon freshly
ground pepper, divided
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons extra
virgin olive oil, divided
8 ounces sliced
mushrooms (about 2 1/2 cups)
1 large shallot (or a
small onion), thinly sliced
1 tablespoon
all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon dried
1/2 cup dry sherry (or
burgundy)
1/2 cup beef broth (I
use reduced-sodium)
3 tablespoons
reduced-fat sour cream
Sprinkle steaks with 1/2 teaspoon
pepper and salt. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium
heat. Add steaks and cook, turning once, until browned and cooked through, 1 to
2 minutes per side for medium. Transfer the steaks to a plate and cover with
foil to keep warm.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to
the pan. Add mushrooms, shallot or onion and the remaining pepper; cook,
stirring, until the mushrooms are golden brown and release their liquid.
Sprinkle with flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add thyme, sherry (wine)
and broth; bring to a boil and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened, about
3 minutes. Reduce heat and whisk in sour cream, then stir to blend well. Return
the steaks (and any juice) to the pan and turn to coat with the sauce. Reduce
heat to simmer, cover and let heat through about five minutes.
Cube steak dinner |
I love these served with green peas
from the freezer – the best grocery – and buttered noodles with poppy seeds.
Night fall comes a little later these
days as does dawn, but the bitter cold prompts us to start the fire earlier,
pull the drapes closed against the cold as the faint glow of sunset fades from
the western sky. We are filled with the
satisfaction of productive work and good food in spite of what weather rages or
freezes outside the door.
The dowager Hannah |
The dogs snore
softly, yip in pursuit of dreams, and we settle in with slippers, a good book,
an old movie or PBS, and look ahead to summer when this frozen world remarkably
transforms into a paradise.
Monty burrowed |
Cold moon rising (Bruce Grieco photo) |
Always enjoy reading your blogs,very intense (to me) they capture the moments of life in Northern Aroostook County.
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